If you end up staying in Korea for a while, eventually those people back home who threatened you with, “Oh, we’d love to visit!” unexpectedly actually do so.  What was once a very far off, misty idea ends up being a very real challenge to your daily life.  Suddenly, your family pops up at the airport, expecting you to drop everything and play master tour guide.  

  In an alley off the main drag in Insadong lies a little makkoli and mackerel place that tells of an edgier, less cleaned-up Korea. The cement walls are covered in graffiti—an out-of-the-way corner pronounces “Kim Jung Il Rocks” while the more typical messages are lovers’ promises and university pride. Low ceilings, metal bowls of creamy rice wine, and hot, grilled f ...